Now that the dust has settled, we talked to Susan Langdon, executive director of Toronto Fashion Incubator and Deborah Lau, the creative director of Palettera.

Bamboo Magazine: Susan, can you please tell us about TFI?
Susan Langdon: The Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI) is an award-winning and highly-acclaimed non-profit organization dedicated to supporting and nurturing Canadian fashion designers and entrepreneurs. Established in 1987 as the world’s first official “fashion incubator”, the TFI model has been adopted by cities such as New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, London, Melbourne, Auckland, Amsterdam, and Milan. Housed in an 8,300 sq. ft. heritage building at Exhibition Place in Toronto, TFI provides critical support to creative entrepreneurs to develop the business and professional skills they need to thrive and survive. Start-up and advanced community programs include educational seminars on the business of fashion, one-on-one mentoring with industry professionals, exclusive promotional and sales opportunities, and valuable sales, marketing and trend resources.

BM: Who are some of your TFI Alumni?
SL: For over two decades, TFI has fostered many of Canada’s most celebrated talents including Sunny Fong of Project Runway Canada fame, Joeffer Caoc, David Dixon, Pina Ferlisi at McQ, Todd Lynn, Arthur Mendonça, Greta Constantine, Smythe, Juma and Beatrice Holloway which has been featured on the hit television series Glee.

BM: What are some of the eco initiatives TFI has made?
SL: We strive to conserve energy and resources where possible, such as working with Celestial Print, a responsible printing house whose facilities run on wind and hydro power delivered by Bullfrog – part of its commitment to reduce its carbon footprint while delivering high-impact products.

We’ve also published a designer’s “Guide to Going Green” that includes a list of eco-friendly suppliers and have presented related seminars to the fashion community. The guide is available online at www.fashionincubator.com/shop.

Here are Sheri’s tips for achieving the bronzed look:
#1. Keep it monochromatic to achieve a rich, luxe look.
#2. Use a matte bronzer to contour the cheekbones, and use a separate highlighter to add a light glow on the high points of the face

Sheri’s favourite products she used on Alex include : John Masters Organics Sea Salt Spray, Vapour Organics Solar Translucent Bronzer in Simmer, yaby cosmetics eyeshadows

BAMBOO BEHIND THE SCENES

beauty photography: Carlyle Routh [www.carlylecreative.com] | hair+makeup artist: Sheri Stroh of Plutino Group | model: Alex Holody of Next Models | behind the scenes photography: Jeffrey Chan [www.jeffreychan.ca]

Figuring a little advance reconnaissance would be a great place to start, I picked up a copy of The Tarball Chronicles. While driving across Georgia, Louisiana and Texas, and encountering thoughtful locals, mass media, Jean-Michel Cousteau and flocks of feathered friends, David Gessner became quickly immersed in the Gulf community. In 2011, he published his experience in a first-hand account of the 2010 Deepwater Horizon oil spill.

Bringing under his wing those of us who witnessed the disaster only through HDTV, David intersperses humour, colourful language and insights from numerous subject matter experts to connect the oil spill to a bigger and more complex environmental story. The author’s ability to read people, birds, sea life, animals and physical locations, coupled with his no-nonsense writing style, quickly engages the reader.

Fed by streams and rivers described as “capillaries and veins and arteries,” he describes the Mississippi River as “a great cardiovascular system of almost the entire country.” Visiting Louisiana’s Barataria Bay, he explains that “sediment dumped by the Mississippi has weighed down the Gulf floor, causing it literally to sink. And as the land sinks and waters rise, saltwater invades the marsh, killing cypresses and other plants that help stitch the wetlands together. Louisiana’s erosion rate is the worst in the country and the equivalent of sixty football fields of wetland are lost every single day.”

Complicating things further, David notes that “over 50 percent of our country’s population [lives] on a narrow fringe of coast that constitutes only 17 percent of our landmass, just as the shoreline is eroding and the sea level is rising and coastal storms–including…hurricanes [which] are becoming more violent.”

David compels readers to consider “that the places we are now getting our fuel from are our most beautiful places. Think of Alaska, or…the miraculous Mississippi Delta and the Gulf…we couldn’t develop these coasts without the fuel that destroys them, and in getting the fuel we destroy the initial attraction of the places.”

The book left a lasting impression and led me to reach out to David directly.

Bamboo Magazine: What reaction have you had to The Tarball Chronicles?
David Gessner: I guess the biggest surprise has been the lack of reaction. I worked on this book with a great sense of urgency. Part of that urgency came from the sense that what I was working on was vitally important, not just because the untold story of the spill needed to be told, but because the spill posed a question to us as a country: will we change, or will we continue to hurtle down the same path? I tried to make this question very personal: to ask it of myself and others. The spill is [now] old news and there’s little question that we have decided to keep on hurtling: re-opening deepwater drilling and now considering doing the same on the Atlantic coast.

BM: What impact has your time in the Gulf had on your day-to-day life?
DG: I am a long time lover of Thoreau’s Walden, but what I loved about it most, as a younger man, was the idea of loving a place and of loving your life in that place. The Gulf marked a new era in my own life, and a new reading of Walden, one in which I took the hidden economic message to heart. Look, I am not a perfect environmentalist. I still drive a car and fly in planes. But, at least, finally, I am staring the harder questions in the face and trying to use my own creativity, and art, to answer them.

BM: What lessons are you sharing with your students?
DG: I teach nonfiction, and I find that most of my students, both undergrad and graduate, tend to write memoir; that is, nonfiction about themselves. Since the Gulf spill, I have nudged my students harder to let more of the world into their work. I don’t mean that their work should be overtly political or moral. I just mean that I don’t see how a writer can write in these times without considering the times themselves. Or to put it another way, it’s fine to write about the self. Just don’t forget the world. It’s important, too.

Floating in the Gulf waters after running my toes through the seemingly pristine sand of a St. Petersburg beach, I couldn’t help but wonder about the oil and dispersants that flooded these waters just two years ago. By gently encouraging people to “remember that there are priorities other than efficiency, comfort and profit”, The Tarball Chronicles is a compelling read that sticks with you. At least, it sure did with me.

An associate professor of creative writing at the University of North Carolina at Wilmington and award-winner author of eight books about the natural world, David Gessner also founded the semiannual journal, Ecotone.

However, noise pollution is more than just an annoyance. At high levels, or over time (even if we sleep through it), noise can be legitimately bad for our health. Too much noise can increase blood pressure and can affect learning, memory, speech and hearing. Disruption of sleep alone can affect memory, concentration, moods and immune system responses. Animals are also affected—noise pollution can disrupt communication and migration patterns.

Cities most commonly combat noise pollution through ordinances, which vary from place to place. Sound barriers and well-placed parks and trees can help, as well. Communicating with elected officials is important for making sure these protections are in place where they’re needed in your neighborhood.

As a community, we can pitch in by doing our landscaping, mowing and leaf blowing at midday. Better yet, we can use hand-powered lawn mowers and rakes, burning calories while doing so. Communicating with neighbors is a good way to work around landscaping and loud parties. We can also cut down on our own car’s noise by driving a hybrid, or walking or biking. Individually, we can also use earplugs to protect our ears around unavoidable construction or traffic noise.

In all, it’s important that we all be aware of the adverse health effects of noise pollution, as well as the solutions for limiting it, so we can protect each other and ourselves.

Happily, hand-powered gardening, walking, biking, parks and trees all help to soften the urban din and protect our health. Combating noise pollution is an environmental and public health win-win.

Piola strives to spread its good word to cultures all over the world, not just by opening stores, but by unabashedly being itself. The company shares Italian values wherever it goes, yet takes inspiration from each community it finds itself in.

Take one look in any location, and you will see art from local photographers or painters incorporated into the design. Art is also showcased on the company website. Menus boast drinks from all over the world, such as the Brazilian vodka cocktail, the caipirinha.

You may also find yourself sitting on chairs made out of recycled jeans. Yes, a stunning and unique eco-design element from Polish Designer, Ttobias Juretzek, made for Casamania of the Doimo Group. The chairs, made entirely of recycled clothes, are part of the RememberMe collection, which “embod[y] the current focus on sustainability and recycling.”

And, the food? The food is what ties everything together. Piola owners reflected that, “Sharing our culture and customs by means of food and drink is a great way to connect people from over the world.” With a cuisine described as “rigorously Italian: simple and healthy,” who can argue?

This quote reminded us of another passage, one found in the book Eat, Pray, Love. Author, Elizabeth Gilbert summarizes famed author Luigi Barzini’s view on the beauty of Italian culture, writing,

“In a world of disorder…only beauty can be trusted. Only artistic excellence is incorruptible…And sometimes, the meal is the only currency that is real.”

Piola truly embraces food as a currency, connecting cultures from around the world at their table. Imagine if we all did the same.

Piola can be found at 1165 Queen St. West in Toronto. www.piola.it

Currently on my wrists, décolletage and in my hair: Vetiver of Haiti by The 7 Virtues (C $70).

With Barb Stegemann at the helm as founder and fragrance visionary, it’s not surprising that her fair-trade Canadian brand, The 7 Virtues, is as renowned for its global activism as it is for its light and fresh, unique scents.

Infusing the locally grown and harvested organic Haitian vetiver with a squeeze of tangy lime and zesty bergamot, Vetiver of Haiti is the ideal unisex citrus-y scent. The oil is purchased at fair market value, and its sales help to rebuild the country’s communities devastated by the 2010 earthquake.

“I wanted to take a historically male fragrance-oil and make something that both women and men could wear,” Barb explains. “Turns out, Haiti’s vetiver is the best in the world.”

Upon first spritz, the perfume is sexy and cool, “like the ocean,” describes Barb, but then features a warm and earthy quality, much like pulling up a plant’s roots straight from the forest floor. Perhaps this is because of the inclusion of hardened tree resin or amber. Or due to the mix-mastery expertise of Canadian perfumer Susanne Languir.

Either way, this unconventional scent is bright and invigorating and took just over a year and a mere six incarnations to perfect. While most perfume houses typically take upwards of 18 months and double-digit versions before leisurely launching a fragrance onto department store counters, Barb keeps her focus on the humanity of others.

“We move fast,” admits Barb.

Her first two fragrances, Afghanistan Orange Blossom and Noble Rose of Afghanistan (both launched in 2010) have successfully helped empower Afghan women by encouraging the cultivation of the legal, natural flower crops of orange blossom and rose—both alternatives to the illegal poppy crops from which most of the world’s heroine is derived. Tireless in her search of additional organic essential oils, she is now looking to the Middle East and Africa for inspiration to develop additional socially relevant scents. Vetiver of Haiti is the line’s third perfume.

“These are all respectful scents,” Barb affirms. “They can be worn in every environment because of their organic properties. But, mostly, they make you feel happy, and they make the lives of others better.”

Here are Jukka’s tips for achieving the athletic dewy look:

#1. Cleanse and exfoliate the skin so that it looks beautiful and supple.

#2. To make skin glow, use a highlighter on the high points of the face.

Jukka’s favourite products he used on Sydney include : yaby cosmetics highlighter & shadows, Revolution Organics lipgloss in Innocent + John Masters Organics sweet orange & silk protein styling gel

BAMBOO BEHIND THE SCENES

beauty photography: Carlyle Routh [www.carlylecreative.com] | hair+makeup artist: Jukka of Plutino Group | model: Sydney of Next Models | behind the scenes photography: Jeffrey Chan [www.jeffreychan.ca]

Here are Sophie’s tips for achieving the cat eyeliner look:

#1. With a steady hand and eyes open, start from the inner corner of your eye, and draw a line close to the lash line. Keep the liner thinner in the beginning, and gradually make it thicker as you reach the outer corner.

#2. For a more subtle cat eye, extend the liner line to half the width of your pinky finger. For more drama, extend the line to the full width of your pinky finger. At either length, make sure you add a small upward curve to the end.

BAMBOO BEHIND THE SCENES

beauty photography: Carlyle Routh [www.carlylecreative.com] | hair+makeup artist: Sophie Hsin of Plutino Group | model: Tia of Next Models | behind the scenes photography: Jeffrey Chan [www.jeffreychan.ca]

Q: Hi Sheri,

This is a pretty straight-forward question, so I’ll keep it short. I need makeup brushes, but I don’t know what to purchase, and I don’t want to end up with a bunch of them that I never use. What brushes do you recommend to the ‘everyday woman’ who wears a medium amount of makeup?

Many thanks,
Esther, Nova Scotia

A: Hi Esther,
I think this is a question that many women can relate to. While your question is short and to the point, I’m afraid my answer is going to be a wee bit longer. I think most women actually own way too many makeup brushes that go unused, for various reasons.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to the (few) brushes you will end up using the most.

FACE

Foundation Brushes :: Do you need one? No. Do some women like to use them? Yes. As a makeup artist, I have a few that I find essential for doing someone else’s makeup, but do I use one on myself? Occasionally. Depending on just how much and what type of foundation you’re using, your fingers may suffice for a flawless application.

A good brush, however, can really come in handy for additional blending. It will help to spread the product, and you will end up using less. Start by dabbing your foundation/tinted moisturizer in the middle of your face, and use your fingers and brush to blend outward, toward your hair and jaw lines. This ensures coverage where you need it most, and keeps your jawline demarcation free.

• Giorgio Armani Beauty Blender Brush:: Use in short, blending strokes to ensure even, flawless coverage. This brush can also be used to blend concealer under the eye and around the nose.
• EcoTools Bamboo Finishing Kabuki :: I use this brush in a circular motion to do a final blend of foundation once it’s been applied with the fingers. It buffs away lines and creates a smooth, even base.

Sponges :: While I’m not a fan of disposable sponges, I am a fan of having one really great (washable) sponge for blending everything once finished.

• The Original Beauty Blender :: This sponge is now a cult-classic and has spawned many followers (and knockoffs).

Blush/Bronzer/Powder Brushes :: Do you need one for each? Not really. It’s fun to have scads of brushes that can look oh-so-pretty arranged on your vanity, but if you’re really looking to streamline your routine, I’d say you can get away with one great, medium-sized brush. Some may worry about transferring leftover blush or bronzer onto your face when using one or the other, but a quick swipe or dusting on a clean tissue or towel will remove most superficial residue (do this gently please; you want your brushes to last).

I’m a fan of using both bronzer, for a bit of natural contour under the cheekbones, and blush, for a slight hit of colour on top of them. But, of course, you can also use either/or. I will also admit that I’m not the hugest fan of face powders, as they usually just make your skin look dull and lifeless. Yes, there comes a time when you may need to tame that crazy shine, but brushing on tons of powder is only going to add years to your face. This is one of the reasons you don’t need a gigantic fluffy powder brush. If you feel that you really need some powder help, just ‘dust off’ your brush, and spot apply a bit of luminous finishing powder where needed. For this type of application, I like to recommend a soft brush with a more tapered end; one that will pick up enough product, but not too much (remember, it’s always best to start off with less, and add more if needed).

• Quo Professional Blush Brush :: Clients comment on this brush all of the time because it’s so soft.
• Make Up For Ever Fan Brush :: A fan brush can come in handy for cleaning up excess eye shadow or powder that has fallen onto cheekbones. Not essential, but nice to have around.

EYES
The sheer multitude of eye brushes out there is kind of insane. Yes, all of these brushes do different things, and some are better than others, but you can totally get away with just a few good ones. This not only saves counter space, but also your sanity and your hard-earned money.

NOTE: You can ignore what a brush is “supposed” to be used for. Just because it says “crease” doesn’t mean you can only use it there. I use all different brushes all over the face. It’s a personal preference. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

• Crown Studio Pro Blending Crease C330 brush :: For all-over colour and contour, a longer, soft, tapered brush is best. It will deposit just enough shadow without creating severe, un-blendable lines.
• bdellium tools Small Shadow Brush #772B :: For detailing, a small shadow brush lets you add more pigment, and, therefore, definition to the eye. I use a brush like this to add a soft line under the eye, instead of eyeliner. I also use it on the lid to bump up application and add dimension.
• Quo Professionals Angled Contour Brush :: Blending brushes are my absolute favourite. Even though this brush is called a contour brush, I prefer to use it to blend out eyeshadow. Blending brushes are essential because they allow even the most technically un-savvy to create a beautifully blended eye. It is the difference between looking like a contestant on Toddlers and Tiaras and…a human? In a sweeping or windshield wiper motion (in the direction you’d like your shape to go), brush eyeshadow over any hard lines. Voila, it’s magically blended and magazine cover-worthy, rather than beauty pageant-scary.
• EcoTools Bamboo Eye Shading Brush :: This brush has a different shape, but does the same wonderful job as the brush above.

These brushes make the honorable mention category, for women who wear cream or gel liners (brushes are a must with these):

• M.A.C Small Angle Brush #266
• M.A.C Precise Eye Liner Brush #210

LIPS
Lips are another area where I either cheat with brushes that aren’t necessarily for the lips (I find concealer brushes more comfortable), or completely forgo brushes all together. If you desire super-precise lips, a great brush will make all of the difference. If not, you might be able to skip the brush. I’m more partial to applying lipstick straight from the tube and blending with my finger, but everyone is different. Here are a few I like:

• Shu Uemura Synthetic Brush 10
• bdellium tools Bold Lip
• Quo Professional Large Concealer Brush

Brush sets are also a great idea and usually come with mini versions of the brushes you will need. Since they’re smaller, they can be easier to use and are of course great for travel. A lot of the time, these sets can be found during the holidays, but you can usually find them online or at specialty cosmetic counters and stores. Brands to look for include Bobbi Brown, Eco Tools, MAC, Quo, and bdellium.

MAINTENANCE
On a final note, I’d like to touch on brush maintenance. It is imperative that you take care of your brushes and keep them as clean as possible. This is what will help them to last years. Believe me, I have 10 year old brushes still kicking around because I wash them with a mild soap/shampoo and occasionally condition them. Obviously, my kit brushes are washed after every use, but I also like to shampoo my personal brushes every week or two to keep them fresh and to minimize bacteria. Here’s a soap I love that is gentle, yet gets the grease out:

• Dr. Bronner’s Unscented Mild Liquid Castile Soap

So, there you are: all the brushes you need to round out your own little (or large) kit. Of course, you can modify your kit to your liking by adding or subtracting from this list, but I think it’s pretty safe to say that buying brushes doesn’t need to be a giant migraine anymore. Keep it simple.